Beruwala

Beruwala's dive sites sit at least half an hour offshore by boat, reached at a leisurely pace on a single-engine boat — but the wait is worth it. Strong currents sweep through these magnificent rock formations, and where there's current, there's fish: expect dense shoals rather than scattered sightings.

On a good day, visibility here is gin-clear, with sunlight streaming down past 30 metres. Most sites sit deeper than 20 metres, rewarding divers who like exploring dramatic rock architecture — and it's worth glancing away from the reef into the blue occasionally, since whale sharks are sometimes spotted passing between dive sites during the season.

The season runs November to May, and Beruwala's mix of current, depth and the outside chance of something big cruising past makes it a favourite for more experienced divers on Sri Lanka's west coast.